Monday, July 02, 2007
July 2007 Update from Bangalore
Sunday, July 1, 2007
The '7' in 2007 isn't a typo. I'm just a year behind in sending this out. Blame it on lack of discipline, my strong ability to proscrastinate, raising three kids, whatever.
Kendra Carpenter came over today to give me information on cross-cultural training in Bangalore. We both got our Master's degree from Lesley College in Cambridge, Massachusetts in Intercultural Relations. Her emphasis was on intercultural training, and mine was in development project administration. We're also similar in that we both are one half Polish, and are partnered with Indian men (actually, Kendra's boyfriend is American of Indian descent) whose parents or grandparents live in Chennai.
She had lots of good leads and ideas, and I'll go ahead and interview with CWSolutions this week before heading off to Leh to go trekking.
In the afternoon, Kitty, Vidur, Preethvi and Sagar came over for a visit. Kitty went back to work last month after staying at home for some years (her sons and now nearly 8 and 6 years old), so I enjoy checking in with her on how that transition's going, considering I'm thinking of doing the same myself soon (although she's gone full-time and I intend to do very part-time).
Monday, July 2, 2007
Molly stayed home sick from school today because of her fever that developed yesterday afternoon. Every week one of the three kids has this two or three day fever. Must be viral or the weather.
But she was in good spirits. I took her around the neighborhood walking on a few errands. She's become completely obsessed with Berkeley and gets very upset when I tell her she can't have a playdate with her if she's stayed home sick from school.
Maya had her first keyboard lesson today with Mr. Raj Shekar. My friend Sheela and her son Sashwath (one of Maya's former schoolmates from Neev) took lessons from him and spoke very highly of him--infinite patience was the one that stuck most in my mind.
July 3, 2007
At my comprehensive health check earlier this month I learned that I needed reading glasses. Picked up a pair at Udani Opticals of CMH Road today--3500rs (or $87.50 US). Seemed like a lot--I guess it's been a long time since I've bought glasses. I used to wear them when I was working on computers a lot back in the mid to late 80s, but had an opthalmologist tell me in the 90s that I didn't need glasses, so hadn't worn them in over a decade. Strange. Badri and I have been talking about getting Lasik surgery done here. Lots of people have it done here and are very happy with the results.
July 4-13 Trek in Ladakh, up in the Himalayas
Left Bangalore on July 4th with my friends Debra (Canadian) and Alla (Latvian). Debra has been enamoured with the idea of trekking in Ladakh for quite some time now, and she convinced Alla and me that it was something we could handle. I was emboldened by two friends' trips--Irfana skiing up north and Fiona trekking in Ladakh--who had left children behind in good hands to have a girls' getaway.
Flew to Delhi and stayed overnight with Alla's mother-in-law (Alla is married to Chris, an Indian man who works at Goldman Sachs). Met Alla's mother- and father-in-law, wonderful folks who were very warm and welcoming. Chris's father is bedridden in poor health, but we met him in his room and he was a spry-in-spirit older man. Alla's nephew met us there that night, and in the morning we flew from Delhi to Leh, the former capital of the Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh, in the state of Jammu and Kashmir (the very northern part of India). Leh's at an altitude of 3500 m (or 11,400 ft.). We took the minimum two days to get acclimatized to the altitude, with the help of Diamox, medicine purported to prevent altitude sickness.
Dmitri, Alla's cousin, was quite ill during those two days, and had mostly liquid and crackers while we stayed at Silver Cloud, a lovely guest house within walking distance from the center of Leh.
Nepalese young girl who works at Silver Cloud
Our four day trek was from Spitok to Stok. On the first day we hiked from 10am-5pm. The only thing that saved me from suffering terribly from the high altitude was that Debra, the most in shape of the four of us, wasn't doing well at all that first day. She became very pale and came very close to passing out. If she'd been at the top of her game I would probably have tried to keep up with her and passed out myself.
small village with monastery
On Day 2 we hiked from 8:30 to 3. Snow started falling at 10am as we started our ascent to Stok-la at 4800 m, high up in the Himalayas. It was a pretty steep ascent. We were taking a rest at each switchback. Alla was on a pony up ahead, and all of a sudden one of the ponies carrying kitchen stuff ran off trail, down the ravine with three bags of pots and pans flying in all directions. One of the pony keepers flew down the snowy incline after him, pretty much skiing on his sneakers. As he got to the horse the horse freaked out and kicked him in the arm. Our guide ran/slid down to help him out. When they made it back up to the trail with the horse and his load, we started up again--Debra, Dmitri, our guide and I before the others. As it was getting really steep, we learned later that Alla's horse slipped and she fell off the horse. We made it to the top by 12 noon, exhausted as hell.
trekkies Debra, Alla, and me
snowy way up Stok La, 4800m (14,400ft)
local man and our guide
That night it was the coldest of the three nights in the tent. We lit lots of candles in our tent, and our Eagle Scout Debra, equipped with rope, rigged up an indoor clothesline to dry off our clothes.
On Day 3 we woke up to clear skies. The guide wakes us up at 6:30am with morning tea, then we go to the kitchen tent for a breakfast of pancakes. Dawa's a great cook who makes quite tasty food from basic ingredients. He comes from Zanskar, is 27 years old, and has a two year old son. Most of his income for the year comes from June to August treks. Quiet, relaxed guy, quick to smile, always with sunglasses on the trail.
The itinerary said Matho La is a strenuous climb with a steep descent, but we found it even more difficult than Stok La--it was an unrelenting ascent slowly up, up, up. But still it wasn't as bad in terms of labor on the lungs. Day 1 was the worst, although supposedly the easiest, because we hadn't yet acclimated. I'd definitely recommend that everybody spend three days at around 3500m (10,500 ft.) getting used to the altitude. Molly and Emily, the Australians we met at Silver Cloud the first day, said they were blue in the lips when they first arrived in Leh.
On Day 4 we hiked from 9 to 2:15. Woke up for 6:30am tea, then we had breakfast outdoors at 7:15--oatmeal, eggs, hot chocolate, and chapati. Plus Easha, the sheep herder, came over with hot sweet milk for us to drink. It was such a heavenly place to spend the last night of our trek.
resting our last night on the trail
Easha, the shepherdess who invited us into her home and gave us warm goats milk
Alla, Dmitri, and Debra, with cake made over a campfire!
Easha's husband, with prayer wheel
We visited Matho Gompa (monastery), around 26km south east of Leh. It is located on the opposite bank of the River Indus and was founded in the 16th century by Lama Dugpa Dorje. One of the main attractions of this monastery is the Matho Nagrang Festival. It's organized every year on the 14th and 15th day of the first Tibetan month. On this day, all the monks take part in the sacred dances.
monastery
prayer wheel
prayer flags
young monks at Matho Gompa
Matho Gompa (monastery)
view from Matho Gompa
Matho Gompa
children of the workers repairing the monastery
So much of Ladakh reminds me of Bolivia--very warm and generous people living in such a rarified environment. Barely two inches of rain fall per year in this area because of the location between mountain ranges.
The outfitter we used was:
Snow Leopard Trails, India
Head Office: Hotel Kang-Lha-Chhen Complex
P.O. Box No. 46
Leh, Ladakh 194 101 India, Tel: 91 1982 252188
http://www.ladakh-tour.com/
Badri had booked me into the Ambassador Hotel next to Khan Market but that was overbooked so I was moved to the Taj Mahal Hotel on Mansingh Road for the same $125/night rate (including breakfast).
Easha and her husband herding their sheep
I started at Khan Market around noon. It felt like only yesterday when I first came here with Badri in 1998. He reminded me via sms (instant phone message) to to go to the alley behind the market, where he'd shown me the tailor he'd had 30 years before. I think the mochi (shoe repairman) had been replaced by his son. Couldn't resist going in to Anokhi (one of my favorite shops also has a branch in Bangalore). Stopped at Fabindia for a shirt to match the skirt I'd bought in Leh (made in Nepal). I didn't bring enough city clothes, thinking I wouldn't stay overnight in Delhi.
Saw a flyer for a photo exhibit and stopped in. A young 20 something Indian woman trained in architecture who'd traveled a lot took pictures of England, Scotland, and India. My favorites were of Lodi Gardens. I knew what the two pictures were before I looked at the index provided. Badri grew up not too far from Lodi Gardens and we visited there in 1998.
Thanks heavens for Gulati's in Pandara Road Market, not far from the hotel and Khan Market. This is where we came for Mother's Day 2001 when we brought Maya home to Amma and Appa's in Delhi. I'd been exploring around town when I checked Gulati's at 2pm and there was too long a wait. By 4pm I was really hungry (I'd made do with apple and nuts from trek snack packs, but hunger for something real had set in). They were turning off the lights for the 'tween lunch and dinner break, but they let me in. I had a delicious murgh tikka (boneless chicken marinated in ginger, garlic, and spices, roasted in a tandoor oven), with mixed raita (yogurt with vegetables and fresh coriander) and makhani naan. Naan is soft traditional leavened flour bread layered with butter.
Back at the hotel, had a nice swim at the pool and met a very interesting Peruvian woman. She's married to a Spaniard who's part of the UN in Belgium. She had been pretty much in my shoes not too long ago--a stay at home mom ready to start working again. She had some encouraging words about taking the leap and getting back into it.
Friday, July 20, 2008
Now Badri's turn for a getaway. He went to Wayanad, Kerala (called the Green Paradise) with his friends from work for the weekend. It's about an 8 hour drive from Bangalore.
Kirsty's sister Janey is visiting from Australia, so I went to their place in Koramangala for dinner.
Saturday, July 21, 2008
Kirsty and family, plus her sister Janey, husband Andrew and son Tom came for dosas. It was quite awkward when Tulsidas, the photographer with Stark News showed up to take pictures for an article on expatriates. I thought he looked very familiar, and it turns out he's also the swim coach at the Indiranagar Club, where I'd taken Maya for one lesson. It was only one lesson because he uses more or less the "sink or swim" method.
Sunday, July 22, 2008
Brought Maya to her school friend Adya's house near Ulsoor Lake for a playdate. Adya's mom, Tara, is great. Met her at Kavita's last month, at Dhruv's birthday party.
Tuesday, July 24, 2008
July 26, 2007
Maya's been complaining about her eyes stinging and also holding reading material close to her eyes to see, so I brought her in to see Dr. Ravi, an ophthalmologist who runs the Kapila Eye Clinic on 12th Main next to Neev. Turns out everything is okay with her vision.
Sunday, July 1, 2007
The '7' in 2007 isn't a typo. I'm just a year behind in sending this out. Blame it on lack of discipline, my strong ability to proscrastinate, raising three kids, whatever.
Kendra Carpenter came over today to give me information on cross-cultural training in Bangalore. We both got our Master's degree from Lesley College in Cambridge, Massachusetts in Intercultural Relations. Her emphasis was on intercultural training, and mine was in development project administration. We're also similar in that we both are one half Polish, and are partnered with Indian men (actually, Kendra's boyfriend is American of Indian descent) whose parents or grandparents live in Chennai.
She had lots of good leads and ideas, and I'll go ahead and interview with CWSolutions this week before heading off to Leh to go trekking.
In the afternoon, Kitty, Vidur, Preethvi and Sagar came over for a visit. Kitty went back to work last month after staying at home for some years (her sons and now nearly 8 and 6 years old), so I enjoy checking in with her on how that transition's going, considering I'm thinking of doing the same myself soon (although she's gone full-time and I intend to do very part-time).
Monday, July 2, 2007
Molly stayed home sick from school today because of her fever that developed yesterday afternoon. Every week one of the three kids has this two or three day fever. Must be viral or the weather.
But she was in good spirits. I took her around the neighborhood walking on a few errands. She's become completely obsessed with Berkeley and gets very upset when I tell her she can't have a playdate with her if she's stayed home sick from school.
Maya had her first keyboard lesson today with Mr. Raj Shekar. My friend Sheela and her son Sashwath (one of Maya's former schoolmates from Neev) took lessons from him and spoke very highly of him--infinite patience was the one that stuck most in my mind.
July 3, 2007
At my comprehensive health check earlier this month I learned that I needed reading glasses. Picked up a pair at Udani Opticals of CMH Road today--3500rs (or $87.50 US). Seemed like a lot--I guess it's been a long time since I've bought glasses. I used to wear them when I was working on computers a lot back in the mid to late 80s, but had an opthalmologist tell me in the 90s that I didn't need glasses, so hadn't worn them in over a decade. Strange. Badri and I have been talking about getting Lasik surgery done here. Lots of people have it done here and are very happy with the results.
July 4-13 Trek in Ladakh, up in the Himalayas
Left Bangalore on July 4th with my friends Debra (Canadian) and Alla (Latvian). Debra has been enamoured with the idea of trekking in Ladakh for quite some time now, and she convinced Alla and me that it was something we could handle. I was emboldened by two friends' trips--Irfana skiing up north and Fiona trekking in Ladakh--who had left children behind in good hands to have a girls' getaway.
Flew to Delhi and stayed overnight with Alla's mother-in-law (Alla is married to Chris, an Indian man who works at Goldman Sachs). Met Alla's mother- and father-in-law, wonderful folks who were very warm and welcoming. Chris's father is bedridden in poor health, but we met him in his room and he was a spry-in-spirit older man. Alla's nephew met us there that night, and in the morning we flew from Delhi to Leh, the former capital of the Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh, in the state of Jammu and Kashmir (the very northern part of India). Leh's at an altitude of 3500 m (or 11,400 ft.). We took the minimum two days to get acclimatized to the altitude, with the help of Diamox, medicine purported to prevent altitude sickness.
Dmitri, Alla's cousin, was quite ill during those two days, and had mostly liquid and crackers while we stayed at Silver Cloud, a lovely guest house within walking distance from the center of Leh.
Nepalese young girl who works at Silver Cloud
Our four day trek was from Spitok to Stok. On the first day we hiked from 10am-5pm. The only thing that saved me from suffering terribly from the high altitude was that Debra, the most in shape of the four of us, wasn't doing well at all that first day. She became very pale and came very close to passing out. If she'd been at the top of her game I would probably have tried to keep up with her and passed out myself.
small village with monastery
On Day 2 we hiked from 8:30 to 3. Snow started falling at 10am as we started our ascent to Stok-la at 4800 m, high up in the Himalayas. It was a pretty steep ascent. We were taking a rest at each switchback. Alla was on a pony up ahead, and all of a sudden one of the ponies carrying kitchen stuff ran off trail, down the ravine with three bags of pots and pans flying in all directions. One of the pony keepers flew down the snowy incline after him, pretty much skiing on his sneakers. As he got to the horse the horse freaked out and kicked him in the arm. Our guide ran/slid down to help him out. When they made it back up to the trail with the horse and his load, we started up again--Debra, Dmitri, our guide and I before the others. As it was getting really steep, we learned later that Alla's horse slipped and she fell off the horse. We made it to the top by 12 noon, exhausted as hell.
trekkies Debra, Alla, and me
snowy way up Stok La, 4800m (14,400ft)
local man and our guide
That night it was the coldest of the three nights in the tent. We lit lots of candles in our tent, and our Eagle Scout Debra, equipped with rope, rigged up an indoor clothesline to dry off our clothes.
On Day 3 we woke up to clear skies. The guide wakes us up at 6:30am with morning tea, then we go to the kitchen tent for a breakfast of pancakes. Dawa's a great cook who makes quite tasty food from basic ingredients. He comes from Zanskar, is 27 years old, and has a two year old son. Most of his income for the year comes from June to August treks. Quiet, relaxed guy, quick to smile, always with sunglasses on the trail.
The itinerary said Matho La is a strenuous climb with a steep descent, but we found it even more difficult than Stok La--it was an unrelenting ascent slowly up, up, up. But still it wasn't as bad in terms of labor on the lungs. Day 1 was the worst, although supposedly the easiest, because we hadn't yet acclimated. I'd definitely recommend that everybody spend three days at around 3500m (10,500 ft.) getting used to the altitude. Molly and Emily, the Australians we met at Silver Cloud the first day, said they were blue in the lips when they first arrived in Leh.
On Day 4 we hiked from 9 to 2:15. Woke up for 6:30am tea, then we had breakfast outdoors at 7:15--oatmeal, eggs, hot chocolate, and chapati. Plus Easha, the sheep herder, came over with hot sweet milk for us to drink. It was such a heavenly place to spend the last night of our trek.
resting our last night on the trail
Easha, the shepherdess who invited us into her home and gave us warm goats milk
Alla, Dmitri, and Debra, with cake made over a campfire!
Easha's husband, with prayer wheel
We visited Matho Gompa (monastery), around 26km south east of Leh. It is located on the opposite bank of the River Indus and was founded in the 16th century by Lama Dugpa Dorje. One of the main attractions of this monastery is the Matho Nagrang Festival. It's organized every year on the 14th and 15th day of the first Tibetan month. On this day, all the monks take part in the sacred dances.
monastery
prayer wheel
prayer flags
young monks at Matho Gompa
Matho Gompa (monastery)
view from Matho Gompa
Matho Gompa
children of the workers repairing the monastery
So much of Ladakh reminds me of Bolivia--very warm and generous people living in such a rarified environment. Barely two inches of rain fall per year in this area because of the location between mountain ranges.
The outfitter we used was:
Snow Leopard Trails, India
Head Office: Hotel Kang-Lha-Chhen Complex
P.O. Box No. 46
Leh, Ladakh 194 101 India, Tel: 91 1982 252188
http://www.ladakh-tour.com/
July 11, 2008
Badri had booked me into the Ambassador Hotel next to Khan Market but that was overbooked so I was moved to the Taj Mahal Hotel on Mansingh Road for the same $125/night rate (including breakfast).
The staff at both hotels were fantastic. Pooja at Ambassador was very sweet--showed me all around the hotel trying to kill time before we learned I'd have to switch hotels.
Daisy brought me to my room at Taj. I realized exactly which hotel I was headed to when I saw the flower stalls near the roundabout (aka traffic circle): this is the same Taj where Badri and I stayed in 2005 for a couple nights, right after I'd weaned Charlie (I'll never forget that--both the weaning and the heavenly time I had with Badri).Getting situated in the room when there was a bell at the door--Daisy had asked earlier if I wanted a welcome drink and they brought in a filtered coffee with cookies, replete with a mini vase of orchids. Maya would love them--pink and fuschia.
As I unpacked my clothes to see if I had a few clean things to wear, I noticed pretty much everything smelled distinctly of cow patty cook fire. Debra, Alla, and I visited Easha, the shepherdess, where we stayed our last night on the trek and the smoke really sticks.Easha and her husband herding their sheep
I started at Khan Market around noon. It felt like only yesterday when I first came here with Badri in 1998. He reminded me via sms (instant phone message) to to go to the alley behind the market, where he'd shown me the tailor he'd had 30 years before. I think the mochi (shoe repairman) had been replaced by his son. Couldn't resist going in to Anokhi (one of my favorite shops also has a branch in Bangalore). Stopped at Fabindia for a shirt to match the skirt I'd bought in Leh (made in Nepal). I didn't bring enough city clothes, thinking I wouldn't stay overnight in Delhi.
Saw a flyer for a photo exhibit and stopped in. A young 20 something Indian woman trained in architecture who'd traveled a lot took pictures of England, Scotland, and India. My favorites were of Lodi Gardens. I knew what the two pictures were before I looked at the index provided. Badri grew up not too far from Lodi Gardens and we visited there in 1998.
Thanks heavens for Gulati's in Pandara Road Market, not far from the hotel and Khan Market. This is where we came for Mother's Day 2001 when we brought Maya home to Amma and Appa's in Delhi. I'd been exploring around town when I checked Gulati's at 2pm and there was too long a wait. By 4pm I was really hungry (I'd made do with apple and nuts from trek snack packs, but hunger for something real had set in). They were turning off the lights for the 'tween lunch and dinner break, but they let me in. I had a delicious murgh tikka (boneless chicken marinated in ginger, garlic, and spices, roasted in a tandoor oven), with mixed raita (yogurt with vegetables and fresh coriander) and makhani naan. Naan is soft traditional leavened flour bread layered with butter.
Back at the hotel, had a nice swim at the pool and met a very interesting Peruvian woman. She's married to a Spaniard who's part of the UN in Belgium. She had been pretty much in my shoes not too long ago--a stay at home mom ready to start working again. She had some encouraging words about taking the leap and getting back into it.
Friday, July 20, 2008
Now Badri's turn for a getaway. He went to Wayanad, Kerala (called the Green Paradise) with his friends from work for the weekend. It's about an 8 hour drive from Bangalore.
Kirsty's sister Janey is visiting from Australia, so I went to their place in Koramangala for dinner.
Saturday, July 21, 2008
Kirsty and family, plus her sister Janey, husband Andrew and son Tom came for dosas. It was quite awkward when Tulsidas, the photographer with Stark News showed up to take pictures for an article on expatriates. I thought he looked very familiar, and it turns out he's also the swim coach at the Indiranagar Club, where I'd taken Maya for one lesson. It was only one lesson because he uses more or less the "sink or swim" method.
Sunday, July 22, 2008
Brought Maya to her school friend Adya's house near Ulsoor Lake for a playdate. Adya's mom, Tara, is great. Met her at Kavita's last month, at Dhruv's birthday party.
Badri came back feverish after his trip.
Tuesday, July 24, 2008
I had an interview with Sapna Rao for a cross-cultural training position with Aperian Global. We met at Infinitea on Cunningham Road. We hit it off right away. And the position sounds terrific. Although I lack business experience, per se, I have the background to learn the material and have a go at it. The fact that it's part-time (she said as few as four trainings a month, possibly) is a bonus.
In the afternoon Sarah and Isis came over. Isis and Maya were classmates at the Canadian School. They'll be moving back to the UK soon.July 26, 2007
Maya's been complaining about her eyes stinging and also holding reading material close to her eyes to see, so I brought her in to see Dr. Ravi, an ophthalmologist who runs the Kapila Eye Clinic on 12th Main next to Neev. Turns out everything is okay with her vision.
# posted by Kelly @ 9:17 PM 
